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Last week I snuck away for an hour to the ossuary at Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini. Beyond the Colosseum, beyond the Spanish Steps, beyond the Mediterranean, this is the coolest thing I’ve seen in this country (Very close second to the sea; “there’s something about the Mediterranean,” Kylee says. She’s seen it from multiple coasts, and I trust her judgment on this one.).

The ossuary is a series of five small chapels draped and decorated with human bones. You’re surrounded by the skulls, tibias and fibulas, and vertebrae of some 3700 friars. Macabre, the internet will tell you; dark, sinister, or gross.

Me, though: it was one of the most incredible and exciting works I’d ever seen. What more wry, optimistic, and beautiful than a resurrection scene made of dry bones?! What promise, hope, joy; what cleverness; what faith and what goodness.

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